Over but not out for Lviv

Lviv is gripped by a sense of loss today, like the departure of a new friend who had no sooner commanded a place in the heart than they had to leave. The sorrow is acute, though in time locals will reflect only on the happy memories of a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The UEFA EURO 2012 roadshow has moved on, taking thousands of adopted sons and daughters with it, yet will remain long in the memory.

If the sun shone just intermittently until the last few days, the city glowed with a vivid array of colour throughout, with the warmth of visitors from Denmark, Germany and Portugal helping to dry the rain. Lviv did not so much throw open its doors as roll out the red carpet and send out the canapés – covered, of course, in dill; a staple here in Ukraine. Even the local fauna dressed up for the occasion, with the maple trees on Shevchenko Avenue decked in the colours of all 16 competing teams.

The red carpet was apt, with footballing luminaries José Mourinho, Eusébio, Uwe Seeler and UEFA President Michel Platini among the visitors, alongside royalty in the shape of Prince Frederik of Denmark. They were rewarded with some excellent games, which all hung in the balance going into the final quarter; perhaps Silvestre Varela's 87th-minute winner for Portugal against Denmark shines brightest among the highlights.

Yet the joy was as much away from the Arena Lviv as in it, as a carnival spirit pervaded the city's cobblestone roads. Two special cars also took to the streets. Painted red and white, and yellow and blue, in honour of the co-hosts, they are known as the humpbacked Zaporozhtsi, built by the Ukrainian Zaporizhya car factory during the 1960s. For the duration of UEFA EURO 2012, any fan who manages to spot a spare one can get a free trip to their destination (within reason).

A special beer festival – Lviv is famous for brewing, be it ale or coffee – ran for three days, perfectly timed to coincide with the arrival of the sunshine and some 16,000 Germany and Denmark fans ahead of the final match on Sunday.

But this is a long goodbye – the fan zone will be open until 2 July, so the party looks set to continue albeit without certain distinguished guests. Some 32,000 filled Freedom Avenue for Ukraine's Donetsk defeat by France and a similar number is expected on Tuesday for the national side's meeting with England. It has been fun, yet tomorrow is another day.